2006 vintage

Guide Gault Millau 2010
1280 domaines sélectionnés, 6000 meilleurs vins de France
Domaine classé Très Bon

 

La famille Tortochot est installée depuis quelques années sur Gevrey-Chambertin et Morey-Saint-Denis. Ce sont maintenant Chantal et Brigitte qui exploitent les 11 hectares de vignes dont de très jolies parcelles en premier et grand cru. Les raisins sont éraflés, les fermentations durent de 12 à 15 jours avec maîtrise des températures, les élevages sont longs et sans collage. Le style est bien précis, les vins sont fins et frais et respectent chaque appellation et l'esprit des millésimes. Les 2006 sont savoureux et longs avec un Mazy Chambertin délicieux et floral. Le Charmes est plus profond encore. Les 2007 sont en fraîcheur avec du relief. Les Corvées est en dentelle, il faut cependant l'aérer. Lavaux-Saint-Jacques a plus de sève et de volume. Ce sont là de très beaux vins d'une grande sincérité subtile.

 

2006	Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru "Charmes" Chambertin	15,5/20
2006	Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru "Mazy" Chambertin	15,5/20

 

Quaterly review Burghound.com - Allan Meadows - January 2009

 

A Brief Word About Scores:

Numerical scores are endlessly debated among wine lovers. Inevitably, critics tend to emphasize certain characteristics at the expense of others. What follows is an explication of scores at Burghound.com and the underlying taste values they reflect.

Simply put, Burgundies that emphasize purity, elegance, overall balance and a clear expression of the underlying terroir are rated more highly than Burgundies that don’t deliver these qualities. Other important characteristics include typicity, richness, balanced extraction, length and harmony. For example, a Volnay should taste like a Volnay and a grand cru should deliver a grand cru drinking experience.

The score is a summation of the taster’s thoughts about wine. It does not actually express those thoughts. Clearly, a mere number cannot fully represent the nuanced, detailed impression conveyed by tasting note.

Please note: Wines are scored based on their expected quality at peak drinkability. Many grands crus that will, I believe, “be” a 92 may not necessarily taste like a 92-point wine when young, thanks to the tannins or general inaccessibility.

Wines rated 90 points or above are worth a special effort to find and cellar. Wines rated 8/5 or above are recommended, especially among regional and villages level wines. There will be relatively few 90+ point wines, simply because there are relatively few outstanding and superlative wines. Finished, bottled wines are assigned specific scores as these wines are market-ready. Wines tasted from barrel are scored within a range. This reflects the reality that a wine tasted from barrel is not a finished, market-ready product.

 

95-100:	Truly incomparable and emotionally thrilling. A wine so rated is as good as Burgundy gets. By definition, it is reference standard for its appellation.
90-94:	Outstanding. Worth a special effort to purchase and cellar and will provide memorable drinking experiences.
85-89:	Good to High quality. Burgundies that offer solid quality in every respect and generally very good typicity. “Good Value” wines will often fall into this category. Worth your attention.
80-84:	Average to Good quality. The wine is “correct”, displays no noticeable flaws and will provide pleasing, if straightforward drinking.
75-79:	Barely Acceptable quality. The wine is not worth your attention nor is it good value.
75 and Bellow:	Don’t Bother. A wine with noticeable, irremediable flaws.

 

Domaine Gabriel Tortochot (Gevrey-Chambertin)

2006	Bourgogne	red	85
2006	Chambertin Grand cru	red	93
2006	Charmes-Chambertin Grand cru	red	92
2006	Clos de Vougeot Grand cru	red	93
2006	Mazis-Chambertin Grand cru	red	92
2006	Gevrey-Chambertin “Champeaux” 1er	red	91
2006	Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerriers Vieilles Vignes”	red	89
2006	Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées”	red	88
2006	Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois”	red	867
2006	Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St Jacques” 1er	red	90
2006	Morey St Denis	red	87
2006	Morey St Denis “Aux Charmes” 1er	red	89

 

For readers who may be unfamiliar with Domaine Tortochot, this approximately 11 ha domaine is now operated and managed by Chantal Tortochot Michel. The wines are relatively  old school in terms of style and structure though they do see plenty of wood the grand cru level, which is to say 100%.As I noted in the last issue but bears repeating, it’s clear that quality is on the upswing here and this is a domaine worth following. Moreover, given the extremely reasonable prices the wines typically sell for, they are bargains, a descriptor one rarely hears uttered in the same breath with Côte de Nuits grand cru.(A French Paradox, Huntington Beach, CA, Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA and P Comm’s, Ashville, NC, Berry Bros, UK).

Tortochot indicated that her OG’s were bottled between December, 2007 and April, 2008.

2006 Bourgogne:  A pretty, earthy and quite fresh nose offers up mildly rustic red berry fruit and a hint of forest floor that continues onto the delicious, complex and nicely persistent middle weight flavors that offers  reasonably good depth. 85/2009+

 

2006 Morey St Denis:  A very subtle touch of wood frames ripe, fresh and relatively high-toned red pinot fruit that has a background note of the sauvage that introduces earthy, energetic solidly detailed middle weight flavors that end in a tangy and acceptably long finish. Correct. 87/2011+

 

2006 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois”:  Interestingly for what is normally one of the more elegant Gevrey villages vineyards, here the nose is intensely earthy and sauvage with cool and airy red current and raspberry aromas that merge into detailed and reasonably precise flavors that are delicious and I like the underlying tension but the finish is mildly dry and it’s not clear that it will round out in time. 86?/2011+

 

2006 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées”:  A classic Gevrey nose of red berry fruit, warm earth, underbrush, game and a light herbal hint that precedes round, supple and pure medium-bodied flavors that possess really lovely balance and length. This is not especially deep but there is an appealing sense of harmony to this wine. 88/2012+

 

2006 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champsperriers Vieilles Vignes”: An almost invisible touch of oak serves as a discreet backdrop for the elegant, pure and airy currant, floral and subtle earth aromas that complement the wonderfully intense, complex and deep medium weight plus flavors that display fine detail and really excellent length. This is worth a look as it’s a refined and unusually complex villages. 89/2013+

 

2006 Morey St Denis “Aux Charmes”: (from a 23 ha parcel). A pretty, ripe and actually quite elegant crushed red berry fruit that offers up subtle nuances of earth and a hint of wood spice that can also be found on the detailed, minerally and delicious flavors that are, somewhat surprisingly, less complex though more refined with respect to the underlying structural elements. Very pretty but lacks the depth required to be at the next level. 89/2013+

 

2006 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St Jacques”: (from a 61 ha parcel). A bit more wood is in evidence here though it’s not enough to really detract from the sense of purity to the cool, elegant and airy red pinot fruit aromas liberally laced with minerality that can also be found on the intense, detailed and stony middle weight flavors that seem to be constructed on a base of limestone, all wrapped in a balanced and long finish. Lovely and very Lavaut in character. 90/2013+

 

2006 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champeaux”: (from a 79 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines). A more complex melange of earthy red berry fruit, wood spice, underbrush and wet stone serves as an enveloping introduction to less refined but more intricate flavors that culminate in a firmer and more masculine finish that is serious, powerful and harmonious. Terrific 91/2014+

 

2006 Charmes-Chambertin: (100% from 57 ha parcel in Charmes proper). A relatively high-toned nose that is pretty but entirely serious offers up notes of red cherry and raspberry, warm earth and a smoked game note that merges seamlessly into detailed, powerful and palate staining medium weight plus flavour that possess impressive density, intensity and length while being supported by notably firm and ripe tannins. This is really very impressive though patience required. 92/2016+

 

2006 Mazis-Chambertin: (from 42 ha parcel in Mazis-Haut). A completely different but equally interesting nose is much more sauvage in character with intensely earthy and gamy notes adding complexity to the ripe red and blue berry fruit and underbrush aromas that are in keeping with the robust, muscular and powerful full-bodied flavors that are also palate staining, serious and long with plenty of youthful austerity. This too will require plenty of patience. 92/2016+

 

2006 Chambertin: (from a 31 ha parcel). This is backward and reserved to the point of being taciturn and even aggressive swirling coaxes little from the glass save for glimpses of an intensely sauvage and earthy red berry suffused nose that leads to intensely stony, cool and austere impressively scaled flavors are carved from a block of stone while culminating in a terrifically long, intense and palate staining finish. This is beyond primary and it’s classically built and proportioned but be prepared to put it in the cellar and forget it’s there for a long while to come. 93/2018+
 

2006 Clos de Vougeot : (from a 21 ha parcel). A background trace of wood sets off reticent but pure and earth red, blue and violet aromas that are followed by wonderfully intense, dense and powerful broad-shouldered flavors that both coat and stain  the palate on the long and youthfully austere finish. This is very much Cistercian in character and while impressive, this is one very serious wine where plenty of patience will again be required. 93/2018+

 

VINUM - Europas Weinmagazin - Dezember 2008 / Januar 2009

 

16 bis 16,9 Beeindruckend - Gehört zu den besten Weinen seiner Region und hat internationales Format

Domaine Tortochot - Lavaux Saint Jacques 2006 - 16,5
Gevrey Chambertin Premier Cru
Komplexe Würze, dichter, voller Bau, schöne Länge, herbe Struktur.
Sollte besser noch etwas reifen.
Zu Wildgeflügel. 2011 bis 2016.

 

Guide Hachette des vins 2009
36000 vins dégustés à l'aveugle - 6500 producteurs sélectionnés

 

Domaine Tortochot - Mazis Chambertin 2006
41 à 83 ca en Mazis. Paul, Felix, Gaby et maintenant la génération féminine avec Chantal Tortochot. Grenat violacé, boisé de façon raisonnable (dix-huit mois), son 2006 suggère au nez la confiture de fraises. Charnu et frais à l'attaque, il évolue sur des arômes secondaires de confit. Caractère un peu fauve quand il se libère. Le terroir est respecté, la longueur moyenne. Pour le coq au chambertin (un bon côtes-du-rhône dans la casserole, le mazis dans le verre), en se rappelant toutefois que les Dumaine et Racouchot des années 1930 préparaient surtout la truite, le brochet poché et le homard au chambertin... Les temps changent.

 

Le Guide référence de La Revue du Vin de France 2009
7520 notés et commentés - 1300 Domaines classés
Sélectionné par Olivier Poussier, Meilleur sommelier du monde 2000, Antoine Gerbelle et Olivier Poels.

 

Domaine Tortochot
Chantal Tortochot est revenue au Domaine en 1996; elle s'oriente peu à peu, depuis 2003, vers la culture biologique. Le collage et la filtration ont été supprimés à partir de 1999. Du coup, les vins ont bien progressé ces dernières années, gommant les irrégularités du passé. Ils possèdent un style franc et un joli fruit. Comme ils sont vendus à des prix tout à fait raisonnables, cette adresse est parfaitement recommandable aux amateurs en quête de bonnes affaires.
Les vins : les vins du millésime 2006 sont un peu stricts mais solidement bâtis, assez tanniques. Le gevrey Champerrier est de bonne densité, ferme et de belle fcature, alors que le Lavaux Saint-Jacques est nettement plus élégant avec un nez très fin. Le chambertin est un vin assez peain et d'une fort belle longueur. Le mazis-chambertin est souple et suave, avec des tanins fermes, et le clos-de-vougeot est de bonne densité, un peu strict.

 

Chambertin Grand Cru 2006	55 €	16
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 2006	45 €	15,5
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2006	50 €	15
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2006	26 €	15
Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier Vieilles Vignes 2006	21 €	14,5
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corvées 2006	16 €	13,5

 

La Revue du Vin de France - Juin 2007 (Spécial Millésime 2006)

 

161 vins dégustés : au plus haut niveau, les vins sont superbes.
25 vins sélectionnés
Vins notés entre 13 et 15 sur 20
Lavaux St Jacques 2006 : vin élégant, de bonne longueur et de bonn facture (26 Euros TTC/ bouteille)