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Domaine Gabriel Tortochot (Gevrey-Chambertin)

 

2018	Bourgogne - Pinot Noir Cuvée Fine Sélection	red	87
2018	Chambertin Grand Cru	red	94
2018	Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru	red	93
2018	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	red	93
2018	Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux” 1er	red	92
2018	Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes”	red	90
2018	Gevrey-Chambertin «Les Corvées»	red	89
2018	Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Jeunes Rois"	red	89
2018	Gevrey-Chambertin «Lavaut St Jacques» 1er	red	92
2018	Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru	red	93
2018	Morey Saint Denis	red	88
2018	Morey St Denis “1er - Cuvée Renaissance” 1er	red	91
2018	Morey St Denis “Aux Charmes” 1er	red	91

Chantal Tortochot, who directs this biologically farmed 11 ha domaine that is now ECO certified, and who has done so since 1997, briefly described the 2018 growing season as one that “had certain similarities with the 2019 season but with one major difference, which is to say that the spring was extremely wet, in fact 2.5 times greater than normal. While a problem at the time, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise because without that extra water, it’s not entirely certain that we wouldn’t have had another 2003 on our hands in terms of sunburned and baked fruit. Not completely surprisingly given the subsequent warm weather, we did have to fight off a serious attack of mildew but when the summer arrived with its very dry and hot conditions, the mildew dried up. There was a generous fruit set and the warm conditions allowed a large crop to properly mature. We picked from the 3rd of September and brought in relatively high yields, at least for us as they were in the 45 to 50 hl/ha range. I chose to use around 25% whole clusters for all the wines and thankfully I had no particular issues with the vinifications. During the élevage the wines saw varied percentages of new wood which is to say 10 to 15% for the villages, 25 to 30% for the 1ers and 60 to 100% for the grands crus. Stylistically, the wines are definitely ripe and marked by the warmth of the growing season yet they manage to stay fresh and balanced plus they should age for a very long time for those who have the patience as there is plenty of structure to do so.” The Tortochot 2018s were bottled between November 2019 and March 2020. Note that the Tortochot wines are generally relatively old school in terms of style and structure though they do evidence noticeable wood when the wines are young.

2018 Bourgogne – Pinot Noir Cuvée Fine Sélection: A notably floral is comprised of pretty red berries and soft earth wisps. The delicious middle weight flavors possess an appealing mouthfeel and very good complexity in the context of what is typical for the genre. This attractive effort would be a good choice for a house red plus it should drink well early. 87/2022+

2018 Morey St. Denis: (mostly from Clos Solon). This is expressive and pretty with its array of red currant, spice and a floral note. The supple, round and delicious middle weight flavors that possess better volume and punch, all wrapped in a sneaky long finale. I like the balance, and this too should drink well early on. 88/2023+

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois”: (from Brochon). A slightly more deeply pitched nose blends both red and blue pinot fruit with those of lavender, spice and warm earth. The supple, delicious and more vibrant medium weight flavors possess better depth and focused power on the more obviously structured finale. This is a very good Gevrey villages and worth considering. 89/2026+

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées”: (from a .86 ha parcel). A more restrained and equally deeply pitched nose combines notes of poached plum, dark currant, the sauvage and newly turned earth. Here too there is evident power to the bigger and more muscular medium-bodied flavors that brim with dry extract on the sneaky long finish. This isn’t refined but offers plenty of Gevrey character and this too is worthy of consideration. 89/2028+

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes”: (from a .46 ha parcel). This is the first wine to display any appreciable reduction and here it’s enough to blur the distinctions of what appears to be very ripe fruit. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the very rich, concentrated and velvety flavors that coat the palate with dry extract that also buffers the firm, serious and youthfully austere finish that flashes a touch of rusticity. This is very 2018 in style but offers excellent depth and persistence. Patience strongly suggested. 90/2028+

2018 Morey St. Denis “Aux Charmes”: (from a .23 ha parcel). Elegant and even airy aromas of ripe red currant, lavender and soft floral nuances are trimmed in just enough wood to mention. The delicious, intense and attractively textured medium weight flavors possess a caressing mid-palate that contrasts somewhat with the youthfully austere finish that is more structured than it usually is as this will need all of a decade to arrive at its peak though it should be reasonably approachable after only 5ish years. Good stuff and worth a look. 91/2028+

2018 Morey St. Denis “1er – Cuvée Renaissance”: (from Clos Baulet and Clos des Ormes). This isn’t quite as aromatically elegant, but it is more complex with its blend of mostly red berries and spice elements that include more floral nuances. There is a bit more volume to the delicious and vibrant medium-bodied flavors that flash good power and punch on the more structured and saline-inflected finish. This too is really quite good though in this case it will need a few more years of cellaring before it will be approachable. 91/2030+

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”: (from a .64 ha parcel). A cooler, more restrained and more deeply pitched nose features notes of newly turned earth, underbrush, the sauvage and wild dark berries. There is excellent size, weight and muscle to the very rich yet well-detailed bigger-bodied flavors that display even better power on the youthfully austere and ever-so-mildly rustic finale. This is very LSJ in character and a wine to consider if you have the patience to cellar it for at least a decade. 92/2033+

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux”: (from a .81 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines). A spicier but even more restrained nose combines notes of red and dark currant fruit with those of rose lavender, violet and game. This is also quite ripe but there is a lovely sense of freshness to the concentrated, muscular and richer medium weight flavors that possess a seductive mouthfeel while delivering fine length on the relatively powerful and sappy finish. This is an interesting wine texturally as the mid-palate is plump and round yet the finish is serious and mildly austere. Patience again advised. 92/2033+

2018 Charmes-Chambertin: (from .57 ha parcel in Charmes proper). A cool, pure and equally fresh nose isn’t quite so deeply pitched with plenty of earth and humus characters on the red currant, cassis and lavender-scented aromas that are also trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The mouthfeel is relatively refined thanks to the fine-grained tannins shaping the dense, vibrant and bigger-bodied flavors that conclude in a lingering and ever-so-mildly austere finale. This is lovely and very well-balanced plus it should also age extremely well. 93/2033+

2018 Mazis-Chambertin: (from .42 ha parcel in Mazis-Haut). Moderate wood frames a much more sauvage-inflected nose that speaks mainly of red and dark currant with pungent earth and soft spice wisps. There is outstanding volume to the rich, enveloping and muscular large-scaled flavors that display excellent power and drive on the austere, serious and built-to-age finale. This is impressive and a wine that should amply reward long-term keeping. 93/2035+

2018 Chambertin: (from a .39 ha parcel; 100% new wood). Here the wood treatment isn’t subtle, though neither does it overshadow the very cool red and dark berry fruit aromas that are laced with plenty of earth, spice and pretty floral nuances. There is excellent power and muscle to the broad-shouldered flavors that brim with both dry extract and minerality on the super-saline finish that goes on and on and where the only nit is a touch of warmth. This is also very much built-to-age though it is somewhat less youthfully austere than it usually is. In two words, very promising. 94/2035+

2018 Clos de Vougeot: (from a .21 ha parcel). Discreet wood sets off reasonably fresh and ripe aromas of plum, various red berries, earth and a trace of underbrush character. The equally ripe, rich and full-bodied flavors possess an attractively textured mouthfeel thanks to the abundant sap that also buffers the bold, robust and powerful finish that displays impressive length. Once again, patience required as this is built to age for several decades though it’s not so backward that it couldn’t be approached after 8 to 10 years. 93/2035+

She is a Hong Kong bases Korean American wine critic and master of wine.The first etnic Asian to achieve the accreditation .She was 25 th on Decanter 's Power list 2013 in wine influencers.

Grand Cru Chambertin 93/100
Gevrey 1er Cru Les Champeaux 90/100
Gevrey 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques 89/100
Gevrey Chambertin Les Corvees 87/100

Grand Cru Mazis Chambertin 92/100

Chambertin Grand Cru 94

Gevrey 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques 91

Mazis Chambertin Grand cru 91

Gevrey 1er cru les Champeaux 90

Morey 1er Cru Aux Charmes 88

Morey St Denis 88