Millésime 2007

Guide Hachette 2011
36000 vins dégustés à l'aveugle, 10000 vins finalement retenus, 6500 producteurs referencés dans le guide

 

Gevrey 1er cru Les champeaux 2007 :
Nee au coeur d'une famille de vignerons, dans un Domaine au parcellaire splendide, Chantal Tortochot a d'abord suivi une autre voie, celle de controleur de gestion dans l'industrie. Apres 15 années passées dans ce secteur, elle reprend finalement l'exploitation familiale. Champeaux, c'est son chouchou. Il est le moins connu de ces premiers crus mais elle l'aime bien, avec ses 82 ares exposés plein sud. Elle l'a vinifié intelligemment, c'est à dire avec retenue (macération à froid de 7 jours et cuvaison courte) dans un millésime de maturité hétérogène. De fait ce vin n'exploite pas que le boisé, il révèle des notes d'épices, de cassis et de fleurs et sa bouche, volumineuse et souple, est portée par de beaux tanins. A déguster dans un an.

 

Sélection Decanter Magasine UK - Gevrey - Avril 2010

Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Corvées" 2007 - Recommanded ***
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru "Lavaux St Jacques" 2007 - Recommanded ***

 

The quaterly Review Burghound.com
Allen Meadows 1 Quarter 2010 - 4 January 2010
Domaine Gabriel Tortochot (Gevrey-Chambertin)

 

2007 Chambertin Grand Cru red 93
2007 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru red 92
2007 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru red 92
2007 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru red 93
2007 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champeaux” 1er red 91
2007 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champs Perriers Vieilles Vignes” red 88
2007 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées” red 87
2007 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois” red 89
2007 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques” 1er red 90
2007 Morey St.-Denis red 86
2007 Morey St.-Denis “Aux Charmes” 1er red 90

 

You never know exactly what to anticipate when you arrive for an appointment, especially in a high-traffic time of year such as November. In this case, I arrived as arranged just as two of Chantal Tortochot’s importers unexpectedly did with an entourage of some 20 people. Needless to say, it was difficult to pose my usual set of questions and thus I simply tasted and departed. Apologies to readers that there is no background information to offer but the good news is that the Tortochot ‘07s are, on the whole, quite good. The wines are relatively old school in terms of style and structure though they do see plenty of wood at the grand cru level, which is to say 100%. (A French Paradox, www.afrenchparadox.com, Huntington Beach, CA, Simon N Cellars, www.simonncellars.com, Charlottesville, VA and P Comms International, www.pcommswines.com, Ashville, NC; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www..bbr.com, UK).

Tortochot indicated that her ‘07s were bottled between December, 2008 and April, 2009.

 

2007 Morey St. Denis: A very pinot nose speaks primarily of red berry fruit and a hint of game that continues onto the light to barely middle weight flavors that are soft, supple and forward, all wrapped in an easy to like if somewhat simple finish of acceptable length. This is correct but light. 86/2011+

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois”: A very pure if slightly reserved nose of red currant and wild berries is earthy and slightly sauvage in character as it complements the supple, round and delicious flavors that possess much better complexity and impressive length for a villages level wine. This is worth your consideration. 89/2012+

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées”: A more elegant and airy if less complex nose of very fresh red pinot fruit and subtle earth notes that transfer over to the detailed and lightly mineral-suffused barely middle weight flavors that possess lovely focus and solid finishing precision. This is really quite pretty but lacks a bit of material to be at the next level. 87/2012+

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champs Perriers Vieilles Vignes”: A rather fruity and not especially layered nose offers a fresh and pretty variety of wild red berry fruit aromas plus hints of underbrush that can also be found on the rich, round and delicious flavors that retain a lovely sense of detail on the textured and vibrant finish where the structure is not particularly well integrated at present. My score reflects this awkwardness but if this can come together, it should merit a higher score and it very well might as the underlying material is there. 88/2013+

 

2007 Morey St. Denis “Aux Charmes”: (from a .23 ha parcel). As one might reasonably expect, this is both more complex and more refined while featuring notes of plum, violet and red cherry that give way to supple yet detailed and focused medium weight flavors that display lovely balance and very good length. A Morey 1er of charm and finesse. 90/2014+

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”: (from a .61 ha parcel). A more deeply pitched nose is both cool and restrained as it offers up an impressively complex mélange of red and blue pinot fruit, stone and floral nuances that introduce supple, round and solidly precise middle weight flavors that possess good intensity on the balanced and dusty finish where a lovely sense of underlying tension can also be found. 90/2014+

 

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champeaux”: (from a .79 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines). A discreet application of wood sets off the minerally and very cool aromas of ultra pure red pinot fruit and wet stone hints that also characterize the rich, forward and relatively generous medium-bodied flavors that also possess a lovely sense of underlying tension on the balanced, driving and utterly delicious finish. A really lovely effort that is quite stylish.
91/2014+

 

2007 Charmes-Chambertin: (100% from .57 ha parcel in Charmes proper). A completely different nose is in evidence here because even though this too is largely composed of red berry fruit, here it is earthier and more animale with a smoked meat and herbal component on the naturally sweet, textured and sappy medium full flavors that are serious but not somber, all wrapped in a persistent and moderately structured finish that is sneaky long. 92/2015+

 

2007 Mazis-Chambertin: (from .42 ha parcel in Mazis-Haut). A more aromatically complex and deeper nose with elegant dark pinot fruit nuanced by a superb range of undertones that include game, earth, underbrush and smoke that are in perfect keeping with the very serious, pure, ripe, supple and textured big-bodied and harmonious flavors that culminate in a mildly gassy finish that even with the gas is wonderfully long; be sure to decant this first. In a word, terrific. 93/2017+

 

2007 Chambertin: (from a .31 ha parcel). A restrained and highly complex nose of wild red berry fruit combines with notes of underbrush, freshly turned earth, smoked game and sauvage hints that complement the dusty, intense and well-muscled broad-shouldered flavors that are supported by dense but relatively sophisticated tannins and outstanding length. This is not an especially big or ferociously structured Chambertin but it is very focused and impeccably well balanced. 93/2017+

 

2007 Clos de Vougeot: (from a .21 ha parcel). An almost completely closed and inexpressive nose allows only glimpses of very earthy red berry fruit that has an interesting note of pepper that precedes rich, serious and somber mouth coating flavors that possess good power and excellent length on the distinctly austere and backward finish. This is not an elegant or refined effort but it is very Clos de Vougeot in character. 92/2019+

 

Guide Gault Millau 2010
1280 domaines sélectionnés, 6000 meilleurs vins de France
Domaine classé Très Bon

 

La famille Tortochot est installée depuis quelques années sur Gevrey-Chambertin et Morey-Saint-Denis. Ce sont maintenant Chantal et Brigitte qui exploitent les 11 hectares de vignes dont de très jolies parcelles en premier et grand cru. Les raisins sont éraflés, les fermentations durent de 12 à 15 jours avec maîtrise des températures, les élevages sont longs et sans collage. Le style est bien précis, les vins sont fins et frais et respectent chaque appellation et l'esprit des millésimes. Les 2006 sont savoureux et longs avec un Mazy Chambertin délicieux et floral. Le Charmes est plus profond encore. Les 2007 sont en fraîcheur avec du relief. Les Corvées est en dentelle, il faut cependant l'aérer. Lavaux-Saint-Jacques a plus de sève et de volume. Ce sont là de très beaux vins d'une grande sincérité subtile.

 

2007	Gevrey-Chambertin les "Corvées"	14/20
2007	Gevrey-Chambertin "Champerrier"	14,5/20
2007	Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Lavaux-Saint-Jacques"	14,5/20
2007	Morey-Saint-Denis	14/20