Millésime 2017

Burghound.com - Allen Meadows' - 1st Quarter 2020

Domaine Gabriel Tortochot (Gevrey-Chambertin)

Chantal Tortochot, who directs this biologically farmed 11 ha domaine that is now ECO certified, and who has done so since 1997, briefly described the 2017 growing season as one that “gave us an early season frost scare that ultimately did no damage. The flowering passed well and this was a good omen for quantities. After that the season was relatively easy to manage. We picked from the 9th of September and brought in basically similar quantities to what we realized in 2018. Sugars and acidities were very good and I made no corrections of any kind. As I did in 2016, I used 25% whole clusters in the vinifications. During the élevage the wines saw varied percentages of new wood which is to say 10 to 15% for the villages, 25 Burghound.com 20 2 January, 2020 to 30% for the 1ers and 60 to 100% for the grands crus. Overall, 2017 is a good to very good vintage though it’s not a great one. Still, the wines are refreshing and satisfying and should make for good drinking both early and with age.” The Tortochot 2017s were bottled between November 2017 and March 2019. Note that the Tortochot wines are generally relatively old school in terms of style and structure though they do evidence noticeable wood when the wines are young.

2017 Bourgogne – Pinot Noir Cuvée Fine Sélection: There is an herbal tea top note to the earth aromas of red cherry and raspberry. The round, delicious and nicely vibrant lighter weight flavors offer reasonable depth and persistence on the mildly tangy finish. This is on the lighter side but it’s attractive in its fashion. 86/2021+

2017 Morey St. Denis: (mostly from Clos Solon). A whiff of crushed leaf character floats above the dark cherry, pomegranate and earth scented nose. The sleeker and slightly denser middle weight flavors possess better depth and persistence on the balanced finale. This isn’t especially dense either but like the Bourgogne, it’s certainly pretty. 88/2023+

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois”: (from Brochon). A discreet application of wood easily allows the high-toned essence of various red berries, herbal tea and lovely floral nuances to be appreciated. There once again better volume and a bit more mid-palate concentration to the caressing and appealingly energetic flavors that terminate in a dusty and sneaky long finish. This needs to develop a bit more depth but my rating implicitly assumes that more complexity will develop. 88/2024+

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées”: (from a .86 ha parcel). Here the nose is compositionally similar to that of the Jeunes Rois but with more obvious sauvage character. I very much like the refined texture of the slightly denser medium weight flavors that exhibit slightly better depth and persistence. This is really quite good and worth checking out. 89/2025+

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes”: (from a .46 ha parcel). This too flashes plenty of sauvage character on the airy nose of crushed leaf, forest floor and cool wild red berry aromas. Once again there is a beguiling texture to the succulent yet muscular and serious flavors that possess fine depth and length on the dusty and youthfully austere finale. This is also worthy of your interest. 89/2025+

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes: (this cuvée is expressly made to enjoy young). A fruity nose combines notes of earth with those of various red berries and a floral top note. The supple, forward and generous middle weight flavors possess pretty good depth and reasonable length. Note that this could easily be enjoyed young. 87/2022+

2017 Morey St. Denis “1er – Cuvée Renaissance”: (from Clos Baulet and Clos des Ormes). A subtle but not imperceptible touch of wood sets off the moderately high-toned essence of wild red cherry, green tea and lavender gives way to nicely voluminous medium weight flavors that possess a satisfying richness, all wrapped in a dusty and lingering if not especially complex finale. More depth will undoubtedly develop but I doubt that this will ever be truly distinguished. 89/2025+

2017 Morey St. Denis “Aux Charmes”: (from a .23 ha parcel). A cool and nicely expressive nose speaks of tea, spice, lovely floral nuances and a variety of red fruit aromas and in particular, red currant. The medium-bodied flavors possess good richness and slightly better depth on the balanced and lingering finish that is moderately structured. 90/2025+

2017 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Sentiers”: An overtly floral nose is quite elegant with its airy aromas that combine notes of both red and dark pinot fruit along with subtle wood and spice wisps. The seductive, round and delicious medium weight flavors contrast somewhat with the dusty, tangy and slightly short if notably firm finish. This may round out with a year or two of bottle age but it’s a bit awkward today. 89/2027+

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”: (from a .64 ha parcel). A super-fresh and markedly sauvage-inflected nose offers very cool array of red and dark berries where hints of herbal tea, forest floor and game add breadth. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess excellent complexity as well as focused power on the compact and youthfully austere yet impressive persistent finale. This mineral-driven effort is a classic LSJ. 91/2029+

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux”: (from a .81 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines). As is often the case, this is slightly more expressive with a little dusting of wood framing red and dark currant aromas that are also laced with hints of green tea and plenty of sauvage character. The middle weight flavors aren’t quite as concentrated as those of the Lavaut St. Jacques but there is still very good density and punch to the equally mineral-inflected finish that possesses fine depth and persistence. This isn’t an elegant Champeaux but it offers much to like. 91/2029+

2017 Charmes-Chambertin: (from .57 ha parcel in Charmes proper). Here the nose is mildly reduced the underlying fruit seems both ripe and fresh. Otherwise there is fine underlying tension to the sleek if less powerful flavors that possess a caressing mouthfeel, all wrapped in a slightly tangy finish that still manages to display good length. I suspect that this is in an awkward phase at present and will right the ship with a few years of bottle age. 91/2029+

2017 Mazis-Chambertin: (from .42 ha parcel in Mazis-Bas). Discreet wood is present on the spicy and gamy aromas cut with plenty of earth and soft floral nuances. There is better size and weight as well as more minerality on the powerful larger-scaled flavors that conclude in compact, serious and robust finish that also reflects a touch of acid tang that will likely age out as the tannins begin to resolve. 92/2032+

2017 Chambertin: (from a .40 ha parcel). More evident wood stops short of fighting with the fresh, cool and restrained aromas that features notes of forest floor, herbal tea, wild red and dark cherry and a hint of humus character. The equally restrained big-bodied flavors brim with minerality on the palate coating, youthfully austere and beautifully complex finish that delivers sneaky good persistence. This is presently very tightly wound and will need most of decade to just become approachable. 93/2035+

2017 Clos de Vougeot: (from a .21 ha parcel). This is generously oaked with a menthol top note to the earthy and ripe mix of essence of red berry fruit and pungent underbrush aromas. The energetic and sappy big-bodied flavors also possess good size and weight though the youthfully austere finale is a bit edgy though not particularly short. This bold effort may successfully age out but at present it is less harmonious. 91/2032+

Guide Hachette 2020

Fondé à Gevrey en 1865, ce domaine est régulièrement sélectionné pour ses gevrey et ses mazis-chambertin. En 1997, Chantal Michel-Tortochot (quatrième génération), ancienne contrôleuse de gestion dans l'industrie bourguignonnne, a repris les vignes famliliales, un beau parcellaire de 12 ha (dont 10% de grands crus et autant de 1ers crus), certifiés bio depuis 2013.

Gevrey Les Corvées 2017 : * (1 étoile guide Hachette) Vin très réussi.

Sans doute le nom de ce climat traduit-il la peine qu'il donne aux vignerons... Côté dégustateurs, ce n'est que du plaisir avec cette cuvée développant une aromatique expressive, fine et élégante (griotte, cacao). Les tanins sont ronds, soyeux, renforçant le carcxatère généreux du vini en bouche, et une longue finale conclut la dégustation. 2023-2030

Gevrey 1er Cru Lavaux Saint Jacques 2017 : Vin cité

Charmes Chambertin 2017 : * (1 étoile guide Hachette) Vin très réussi.

Le domaine vante volontiers l'équilibre de ce grand cru. Des qualités qui sont pour l'heure surtout perceptibles aromatiquement : le nez propose en effet de jolies nuances de fruits rouges (de framboise notamment) et d'épices. La bouche montre de l'ampleur et de la fraicheur, mais demande à s'assouplir. Patience. 2024-2030.

vinous.com - Neal Martin

Guide des vins Bettane & Desseauve 2020

Jeannie Cho lee (MW)

Jancis Robinson - 9 janvier 2019

Domaine Tortochot 2017 Morey Saint Denis

Drink 2020-2025.

Domaine Tortochot 2017 Aux Charmes 1er Cru Morey Saint Denis

Drink 2023-2032.

Domaine Tortochot 2017 Grand Cru Mazis-Chambertin

Drink 2023-2035.

Domaine Tortochot 2017 Grand Cru Chambertin
Lovely fragrance of sweet, tangy pure red fruit and the freshness of stems in moderation. Chewy, intense and fresh on the palate, a great balance in an embryonic wine with great promise. (JH)

Drink 2023-2035.

Domaine Tortochot 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru