Millésime 2016

Burghound.com - Allen Meadows' - 1er Quarter 2019
128 Producers with 1,567 Burgundies Reviewed

Domaine Gabriel Tortochot (Gevrey-Chambertin)

 

2016	Bourgogne	red	85
2016	Chambertin Grand Cru	red	93
2016	Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru	red	92
2016	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	red	89
2016	Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux” 1er	red	91
2016	Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes”	red	89
2016	Gevrey-Chambertin «Les Corvées»	red	88
2016	Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Jeunes Rois"	red	88
2016	Gevrey-Chambertin «Lavaut St Jacques» 1er	red	91
2016	Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru	red	91
2016	Morey Saint Denis	red	87
2016	Morey St Denis “1er - Cuvée Renaissance” 1er	red	90
2016	Morey St Denis “Aux Charmes” 1er	red	89

Chantal Tortochot, who directs this biologically farmed 11 ha domaine that is now ECO certified, described the 2016 growing season as one that “gave us excellent quality but the quantities were all over the map due to the frost. While most of my Morey vines were untouched, in Gevrey even Chambertin frosted and that is beyond rare. The big problem in general with the vines that were frosted is that there was no wind and as such the humidity formed ice crystals around the incipient vegetation and when the sun rose, it was enough to burn the tender leaves. Then there was one of the most vicious attacks of mildew that anyone had seen in years so it was necessary to be ultra-precise with your treatments. Overall, I lost 40% of my crop relative to a normal production level. I chose to begin picking on the 24th of September and happily the fruit was quite clean so basically we had no additional losses due to sorting requirements. The fruit was quite ripe though with both good potential alcohols and acidities. I really like this vintage as it’s classic with great terroir definition and wines that should age gracefully for many years.” The Tortochot 2016s were bottled between November 2017 and March 2018. Note that the Tortochot wines are generally relatively old school in terms of style and structure though they do evidence noticeable wood when the wines are young. Lastly, just to remind readers, the Cuvée Renaissance was added for the 2014 vintage thanks to taking back two previously leased parcels of Morey 1ers and a small .12 ha parcel of the Chambolle 1er Les Sentiers was added as of the 2015 vintage. (Bertin Henri Selections, www.bertinhenriselections.com, FL, Simon N. Cellars, www.simonncellars.com, VA, Milton Road Trading Corp, LLC, www.miltonroadtrading.com, CA, P. Comms International, www.pcommswines.com, NC and T. Edwards Wine, NY, all USA; Waitrose Cellar, www.waitrosecellar.com, Waterloo Fine and Rare and O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, all UK).

2016 Bourgogne: Vigorously fresh and bright red berry fruit and reserved earth aromas lead to energetic and well-detailed light weight flavors that display touch of green leaf and bitter cherry on the slightly warm finale. This should drink well essentially upon release. 85/2019+

2016 Morey St. Denis: (mostly from Clos Solon). A discreet touch of wood can be found on the restrained and airy aromas of both red and dark currant that is nuanced by a background whiff of earth. The round, supple and attractively textured lighter weight flavors offers good verve on the delicious and acceptably long finale. This too should drink well on the younger side. 87/2022+

2016 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois”: (from Brochon; 25% whole clusters). Here too a discreet application of wood surrounds the slightly more complex nose that features notes of various dark berries, underbrush and a wisp of humus. There is better mid-palate density to the appealingly textured medium-bodied flavors that deliver better depth and length on the lightly mineral-inflected finish. 88/2023+

2016 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées”: (from a .86 ha parcel). There is the slightest hint of volatile acidity on the otherwise fresh and pretty red cherry, earth and soft sauvage nuances. There is once again good volume to the delicious and pleasingly textured middle weight flavors that possess good mid-palate stuffing, all wrapped in a lingering but moderately firm finish. This isn’t technically perfect but unless you’re extremely sensitive to VA, it’s not likely to be a distraction. 88/2024+

2016 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes”: (from a .46 ha parcel). Here too there is just a trace of volatile acidity on the nose of essence of red berries and earth that is trimmed in just enough wood to mention. There is excellent concentration and evident minerality to the solidly powerful and punchy flavors that conclude in a robust but not really rustic finale that makes clear that it’s built to age. This is really very good and again, while the VA is enough to notice, it’s not enough to materially detract from the overall appeal. 89/2026+

2016 Morey St. Denis “Aux Charmes”: (from a .23 ha parcel). A moderately toasty nose combines notes of freshly picked red and dark cherries along with plenty of earth and humus characters. The delicious, pliant and almost delicate flavors possess a lilting mouthfeel while offering reasonably good persistence if only average depth. As is usually the case, this is a wine of finesse. 89/2024+

2016 Morey St. Denis “1er – Cuvée Renaissance”: (from Clos Baulet and Clos des Ormes). An attractively spicy nose blends notes of red cherry, raspberry and rose petal with just enough warm earth nuances to notice. The caressing and very rounded medium-bodied flavors possess a lovely sense of verve that carries over to the slightly longer and more complex finale. This could be enjoyed young or successfully cellared for a decade or even a bit longer. 90/2026+

2016 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”: (from a .64 ha parcel). An all but mute nose reluctantly offers up softly spicy aromas of brooding and exceptionally cool dark berries, forest floor, game and that humus character that Gevrey so often shows. The sleek, intense and tautly muscular medium-bodied flavors exude a subtle minerality on the lingering and powerful finish that is youthfully austere to the point of being borderline strict. As is almost always the case with a well-made LSJ, this is going to need time to unwind and flesh out as it very tight at present. 91/2028+

2016 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux”: (from a .81 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines). A slightly more expressive and more elegant nose features more floral and less earth influence on the pretty dark currant-scented aromas. There is a noticeably finer if less muscular mouthfeel to the equally mineral-inflected medium weight flavors that retain a lovely sense of energy on the well-delineated and again, youthfully austere finish. This is also quite restrained but a bit less structured. 91/2026+

2016 Charmes-Chambertin: (from .57 ha parcel in Charmes proper). This too is agreeably expressive with its mostly red fruit-oriented nose that proffers background notes of spice, violet and earth. There is a wonderfully refined, even sleek, mouthfeel to the delicious and energetic middle weight flavors that possess better depth and persistence on the slightly more tightly wound and structured finale. Even so, this is a wine that could likely be approached after only 5 or so years of cellaring. 92/2028+

2016 Mazis-Chambertin: (from .42 ha parcel in Mazis-Bas). A relatively high-toned and ultra-fresh nose mixes notes of red cherry and raspberry with those of the sauvage and a whiff of wood toast. The succulent, round and even seductively textured medium-bodied flavors possess reasonably good depth and persistence but not the same mid-palate density. This is certainly pretty but it lacks the power and punch of a classic Mazis. 91/2028+

2016 Chambertin: (from a .40 ha parcel). Moderately prominent wood sets off subtle spice notes on to the ripe, pure and densely fruited nose of dark cherry, cassis and floral-suffused aromas that are liberally sprinkled with earth nuances. The detailed and intensely stony middle weight plus flavors are shaped by notably firm but fine tannins on the notably more complex and longer if more austere finish. Like most quality examples of Chambertin, this is going to require extended patience. 93/2031+

2016 Clos de Vougeot: (from a .21 ha parcel). More discreet though hardly invisible wood influence can be found on the very fresh and relatively high-toned nose that is composed by notes of essence of red cherry, pomegranate and soft earth wisps. There is once again good verve to the medium weight and focused flavors that conclude in a somewhat short and mildly drying finish. This may come together and while the dryness doesn’t significantly detract from the overall sense of balance, neither it is it as well dialed in as it could be. 89/2028+

Dégustation du Roi Chambertin - Novembre 2018 - Par JF Guyard du site www.vinifera-mundi.ch

Comme chaque année depuis 2011 les Domaines de Gevrey-Chambertin présentent leurs vins dans le cadre de la présentation exclusive et réservée à la presse « Le Roi Chambertin ». Celle-ci avait lieu comme d’habitude en novembre, le 16 cette fois, dans le grand et parfaitement climatisé Espace Chambertin.
Pour le profane il faut savoir que cette localité de 3100 habitants ne dénombre pas moins de quatre-vingt producteurs.
Si ce nombre peut paraitre restreint aux observateurs attentifs, ceux-ci ne manqueront pas de remarquer que beaucoup de domaines extérieurs à la ville produisent également des vins sous cette appellation.

Le Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier 2016, dégusté tant dans le cadre du Roi Chambertin en novembre 2017 que dans celui de la présentation du millésime organisée par le négociant suisse début juin 2018, surprend par son approche virile, puissante, ample. Un paquet de muscles dont il faudra surveiller l’évolution. Du fruit noir mais aussi des champignons des bois constituent ses arômes. Bouche très vineuse, ouverte, opulente, concentrée, fraiche et veloutée. A suivre de très près, laissons nous surprendre, ce vin pourrait être le Villages le plus charnu du millésime. 17-17.75/20 (88-92/100).

Que de fruits rouges et en particulier de cerises bien mûres au nez du Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2016, généreux, encore très jeune et suffisamment viril pour ne provenir que de Gevrey. Les arômes sont complétés par des notes de sousbois, d’humus et de prunes cuites. Le palais est ample, charnu, pur, structuré. Les tannins et l’acidité s’équilibrent, la minéralité à peine perceptible au nez gagne maintenant en présence… Un vin globalement expressif qui saura enchanter les moins patients. 17.5/20 (91/100).

Les grands crus du millésime
Notre nouveau collaborateur Jean-Pierre Monsch a été chargé de noter les grands crus du millésime 2016. Nous ne publions ici que les notes chiffrées insistant sur le fait qu’en dehors de quelques rares exceptions nous recommandons tous ces vins à l’achat. Il s’agit en outre de notes potentielles, ces vins demandant au minimum vingt ans de montrer leur grand caractère.
Mazis-Chambertin 2016 - Tortochot : 17,5-18,25/20 - 91-94/100

Guide Hachette 2019

Ce Domaine fondé à Gevrey en 1865, est régulièrement sélectionné pour ses Gevrey et son Grand Cru Mazis Chambertin. En 1997, Chantal Michel Tortochot (4ème génération), ancienne contrôleuse de gestion dans l'industrie bourguignonne, a repris les vignes familiales, un beau parcellaire de 12 ha (dont 10% de Grands Crus et autant de 1ers Crus) ; en bio certifié depuis 2013.

Charmes chambertin Grand Cru 2016 : * (1 étoile guide Hachette) Vin très réussi.

La vendange, issue de vignes cinquantenaires, a été éraflée à 80 %, pour procéder à une cuvaison de 15 jours. Une approche qui a donné un vin élégant et déjà harmonieux. Le nez s'ouvre généreusement sur des notes de fruits rouges, de pivoine et de réglisse. La bouche est soyeuse, ample, fraiche, dotée de tanins soyeux et d'une finale persistante sur le fruit. 2023-2028

Mazis Chambertin Grand Cru 2016 :

Cette cuvée a macéré pendant 15 jours, après encuvage de raisins éraflés à 80 %. La palette aromatique s'ouvre avec puissance sur les épices et la cerise fraîche. La bouche riche et concentrée, se déploie dans l'équilibre, bâtie sur des tanins bien fondus. 2023-2028.

Guide des vins Bettane & Desseauve 2019

Chambertin Grand cru 2016 : coup de Coeur :18/20

Vin de haute dimension,d'une rare plénitude, profond, souverain : c'est un vrai Chambertin.

Mazis Chambertin Grand cru 2016 :16.5/20
Morey 1er Cru aux Charmes 2016 :16.5/20
Morey 1er Cru Cuvée Renaissance :16/20

Notes from www.jancisrobinson.com 10 th of January 2018

All these wines have been tasting in London on 10 th of January 2018 by Richard Hemming (MW), you can find them on website www.jancisrobinson.com

Vintage 2016

Clos de Vougeot 2016 : 18

Gevrey 1er Cru les Champeaux 2016 : 17++

Gevrey 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques 2016 : 17.5+

Gevrey chambertin Les Corvees 2016 : 17+

Grand cru Mazis chambertin 2016 : 18.5

Morey St Denis 2016 : 16

Morey 1er Cru cuvee Renaissance 2016 : 17+

Clos de vougeot :

Excellent spicy power on the nose and layers of fibrous tannins on the palate living a long and expressive finish. It is very much in first gear at present, but has the capacity to open up considerably. Note :18

Gevrey 1er Cru Les Champeaux 2016 :

Deep black fruit on the palate,furry tannins with plenty of heft and substance. Reasonably simple flavours right now, but with definition and concentration that bodies well for maturation. Note : 17++

Gevrey 1er Cru lavaux St Jacques 2016 :

Ripe and cherry fruit.Really pure and juicy. Expressive, broad and chevy on the palate,with equal portion of flavour intensity, tannin and acidity. Evething in balance but still very youthful, of course, and will doubless intermingle with time. Note : 17.5+

Gevrey chambertin les Corvees 2016 :

Similar fungal note to the nose as on their morey, but it is less intrusive thanks to fuller richer fruit that gives flesh and flavour to the palate. Long , expressive finish with lovely violet tones. Note :17+

Grand cru Mazis chambertin 2016 :

Outstanding stony aroma on the nose.flinty, sparky, smoky. Full body and rich palate with a long and flavoursome palate that has excellent richness of fruit. Long and spicy on the finish. Note :18.5

Morey st denis 2016 :

Rather catty and raw on the nose, with some bretty influence,making this somewhat rustic in terms of flavour. A cleaner finish with ripe red fruit redems the palate. Note : 16

Morey 1er Cru Renaissance 2016 :

Clean nose with light cranberry and redcurrant fruit with attractive savouryliquorice notes. The palate has better intensitythan expected. Dry fibrous structure. After a gentle startthis has quie a lot of promise. Note : 17+

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Wine Chronicles - Gevrey-Chambertin 2016 - 27 November 2017 - By Panos Kakaviatos

Based on a 16 November tasting of village, premiers and grands crus, 2016 appears to be darn good for Gevrey-Chambertin. Many thanks to Fabienne Nicot for the kind invitation to taste so many wines from this vintage at the Caveau Espace Chambertin, and to the vintners who offered their bottles to taste. The name of the tasting is Le Roi Chambertin.

The vintage is remembered generally in Burgundy for its low crop – at least 20 per cent less than 2015 – and much of the blame comes from a particularly severe frost, as well as hail and mildew in some locations.

Gevrey Chambertin was not as badly affected by the frost as some other regions had been. And what made the vintage work were sunny months in July, August and September, with just a bit of rain at the right times to freshen berries that had to put up with sometimes excessive summer heat.

Due to variable frost damage earlier in the year, yields vary according to vineyard and producer, but the overall sense for Gevrey Chambertin is that of fine ripeness, with little sense of “over maturity”. The fine summer, quite hot at times, did not define the vintage as much as the heat of 2015 did, according to many tasters.

Gevrey-Chambertin in brief 

As most readers know, Gevrey-Chambertin lies alongside the Route des Grands Crus at the northern end of the Côte which runs from North to South between the Combes of Lavaux at one end and Morey-Saint-Denis at the other.

For travellers coming from Dijon, Gevrey-Chambertin is where Bourgogne’s Elysian Fields begin. At the entrance to the hollowed hill of Lavaux, a château, once a property of the monks of Cluny, resembles a fortified wine-cellar. Gevrey-Chambertin, which dates back to an appellation from 1936, forms a kind of guard of honour to a set of fabulous grands crus whose crown jewels are Chambertin and Clos de Bèze.

The premiers crus occupy the upper portion of the Côte at heights of between 280 and 380 metres (brown limestone soils, rather shallow). Below are the appellation village vines on brown calcic or limey soils. The vines also reap the benefit of marls covered with screes and red silt washed down from the plateau. These stony mixtures confer elegance and delicacy on the wine while the clayey marls, which contain rich deposits of fossil shell-fish, add body and firmness. Exposures vary from east to south-east.

Of course the grands crus of Gevrey-Chambertin are “iconic Pinot Noir” wines: powerful, virile, complex and intense. They demand equally complex, hightoned dishes to keep the pairing in balance. Feathered game (grilled or, better still, in wine sauce) are worthy companions. The power of the wine’s tannins will withstand the shock of contrasting textures while its aromatic complexity and above all its opulence will bring out the differences.

But as prices scrape ever higher skies, sometimes to the point of absurdity, budget-minded wine lovers should look to the village level wines of this expansive appellation…

Tasting Notes 

As ever, wines in bold I liked in particular. In red and bold even more. And if underlined, too, a potential wine nirvana!

Gevrey Chambertin village level 2016s

This is the section that – as a buyer – interests me the most. Bourgogne prices are scraping ever higher skies, pricing me out of many upper echelons. It has been a long while since I even considered buying an Armand Rousseau, for example. But now many other producers’ premiers and especially grands crus have become untouchable as well; my wallet is not nearly as thick as their pricing.

2016 Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier Vieilles Vignes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

Very virile and full bodied, with a nose that suggests power. Earthy suggestions already, but with a clean, fresh and long finish: a lovely village level wine. If the price is right, I’m a buyer. 92

Premiers Crus

I did not taste as many of the premiers as I should have, but really liked Bruno Clair Cazetiers as one of my favorites among those tasted.

2016 Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

All the Tortochots were performing well at this tasting. This is tasty and rich, with verve and mid palate sap. The length is excellent. Bravo! 94

Grands Crus

Some were truly grand. Pity that pricing has become too grand.

2016 Domaine Tortochot Mazis-Chambertin – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

Starts out very smooth and nuanced but then gets austere and closed in on the finish. Should be very good but needs time in bottle … 93