Millésime 2010
Guide Gault&Millau 2013
Plus de 2000 vins dégustés, sélection de 9200 vins en 2012. Pierre Guigui, responsable et coordinateur de l'équipe vins du guide, Christophe Casozza, journaliste du vin, Manuel Peyrondet France 2007 et Antoine Petrus meilleur jeune somelier France 2007.
Gevrey Les Corvees 2010 : 17/20
Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2010 : 17.5 /20
Mazis chambertin 2010 : 17/20
Gevrey 1er cru Lavaux st Jacques 2010 : 17/20
Gevrey 1er cru Les champeaux 2010 : 17/20
Gevrey les corvees 2010
Délectable Gevrey Chambertin, marqué d'une belle typicité avec des arômes expressifs de fruits frais, de prunes, d'herbes aromatiques, de café, d'épices de vanille. En bouche c'est un tres beau vin ample charnu et aux tanins soyeux. La longue finale propose un retour sur les épices.
Mazis chambertin Grand cru 2010
Ce vin admirablement structuré dévoile un nez riche aux arômes de fruits rouges et notes de réglisse. En buche il est puissant et déjà soyeux avec des tanins d'une belle finesse. Belle longueur en fin de bouche et grande garde assurée.
Gevrey 1er cru lavaux St Jacques 2010
Ce Gevrey 1er cru, généreux au nez comme en bouche, propose une large gamme aromatique sur des aromes tres caractéristiques de cerise, de prunes, de groseilles et d'épices. Il est d'un bel équilibre au palais, fin et très élégant et long avec une bonne structure et des tanins présents mais de belle facture.
Gevrey 1er cru Les Champeaux 2010
Beau vin de caractère dans un bel équilibre entre énergie et élégance. Le nez présente des arômes de fruits rouges et de jolies notes de roses. En bouche la structure présente des tanins fins, de l'ampleur, de la densité, de la puissance avec élégance et une longue finale. Assurement un vin de longue garde.
The quaterly review Burghound.com January 2013 Allen Meadows 1st quarter 2013
2010 Bourgogne Cuvée Fine Sélection - red - 85
2010 Chambertin Grand Cru - red - 93
2010 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru - red - 91
2010 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru - red - 92
2010 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru - red - 92
2010 Gevrey-Chambertin "Champeaux" 1er - red - 89
2010 Gevrey-Chambertin "Champs Perriers Vieilles Vignes" - red - 88
2010 Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Corvées" - red - 87
2010 Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Jeunes Rois" - red - 87
2010 Gevrey-Chambertin "Lavaut St. Jacques" 1er - red - 89
2010 Morey St. Denis - red - 86
2010 Morey St. Denis "Aux Charmes" 1er - red - 88
Chantal Tortochot, who directs this biologically farmed 11 ha domaine, described 2010 as a “classic vintage that gave us a very small harvest due to a very poor flowering. On the plus side there was a very high incidence of shot berries which gave us a lot of natural concentration as well as good sugars and acidities. We began picking on the 25th of September and brought in super clean fruit for the most part though there was a bit of sorting here and there. The wines are expressive, clean and beautifully well-balanced with good structure, bright acidity, excellent concentration and wonderful transparency to the underlying terroir. They should age well too as everything is in perfect proportion.” The Tortochot wines are generally relatively old school in terms of style and structure though they do evidence noticeable wood when the wines are young. And in 2010 they seem to be more elegant than usual though note that several of the wines displayed noticeable reduction so I would strongly advise decanting them for 30 minutes or so first. The Tortochot 2010s were bottled between December 2011 and March 2012. (Simon N Cellars, www.simonncellars.com, Charlottesville, VA, Milton Road Trading Corp, LLC, www.miltonroadtrading.com, Napa CA, P.Comms International, www.pcommswines.com, Ashville, NC and T. Edwards Wine, New York; Waitrose, Waterloo and Fineand Rare, all UK).
2010 Bourgogne Cuvée Fine Sélection:
A fruity and very fresh red berry suffused nose trimmed in discreet earth nuances leads to racy and intense light weight flavors that possess a tangy and refreshing finish of modest complexity. 85/2014+
2010 Morey St. Denis:
(from a .46 ha parcel). This is also agreeably fresh with high-toned red berry fruit aromas that precede lacy, supple and very forward light to barely middle weight flavors that culminate in a tangy and somewhat onedimensional finish. This is probably best enjoyed young for its fruit. 86/2016+
2010 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois”:
(from a .54 ha parcel). Very mild reduction removes the top notes from the otherwise pretty red currant and raspberry suffused nose. There is a bit more volume and mid-palate concentration to the supple, round and easy-to-like flavors that are attractively energetic though again, not particularly complex. 87/2016+
2010 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées”:
(from a .86 ha parcel). Here too mild reduction diminishes the appeal, if only slightly, of the fresh and cool mix of red berries, earth and an herbal hint. There is good verve to the light weight flavors that possess a supple mid-palate while culminating in a mildly austere finish that offers up good Gevrey character. 87/2016+
2010 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champs Perriers Vieilles Vignes”:
(from a .46 ha parcel). This offers a step up in aromatic complexity with an intricate array of wild red berries, violet, earth and forest floor. There is good punch and lovely detail to the lightly mineral-inflected flavors that possess better mid-palate concentration on the balanced and long finish. This is a Gevrey villages of finesse. 88/2017+
2010 Morey St. Denis “Aux Charmes”:
(from a .23 ha parcel). There is an herbal hint to the fresh and bright red pinot fruit nose. The round, attractively textured and very supple flavors are almost easy as they are already approachable, all wrapped in a finish that tightens up sufficiently to suggest 5 to 7 years of upside development potential if desired. 88/2016+
2010 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”:
(from a .64 ha parcel). A subtle application of wood sets off a more complex and slightly riper nose that features notes of both red and blue pinot fruit that display background hints of earth, wet stone and forest floor. The mid-palate is also quite supple with evident minerality to the lighter but focused flavors that exhibit fine balance and solid persistence. This is a lighter example of Lavaut but one that delivers good flavor authority. 89/2017+
2010 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champeaux”:
(from a .81 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines). This trades elegance for complexity as there is fine depth to the red and dark berry fruit suffused nose that also displays hints of stone, earth, game and humus. There is a bit more volume to the supple and round medium-bodied flavors where the supporting tannins are just a bit more prominent on the balanced, delicious and persistent finish. A qualitative choice. 89/2018+
2010 Charmes-Chambertin:
(from .57 ha parcel in Charmes proper). Discreet wood frames exceptionally fresh, cool and airy spice and earth-tinged red dark berry fruit aromas that are notably riper than those of the Champeaux. The supple, round and already accessible medium weight flavors possess fine depth and very good length on the finish where the supporting structure arrives quite suddenly. This should drink well young but age well too if desired. 91/2020+
2010 Mazis-Chambertin:
(from .42 ha parcel in Mazis-Bas). Mild wood spice blends with notes of the sauvage, earth and mostly dark berry fruit aromas that introduce supple middle weight flavors that possess plenty of mouth coating extract that helps to buffer the moderately firm tannic spine on the balanced and attractively persistent finish. Like the Charmes this is not a big wine in the context of the appellation but it’s refined and admirably pure. 92/2020+
2010 Chambertin:
(from a .40 ha parcel). This is noticeably more restrained, indeed even recalcitrant on the otherwise extremely fresh, cool, airy and pure essence of red pinot fruit, wet stone and discreet earth nuances. There is good richness to the round and seductively textured flavors that exude a fine minerality that delivers outstanding length on the understated and impeccably well-balanced finish that displays plenty of the austerity for which young Chambertin is justifiably well-known. 93/2022+
2010 Clos de Vougeot:
(from a .21 ha parcel). An adroit but not invisible hint of wood does not unduly diminish the purity of the reserved, cool and again airy spicy red berry fruit and warm earth aromas. The medium weight plus flavors are brooding and quite firmly structured with good mid-palate concentration and fine length on the youthfully austere, balanced and impressively persistent finish. 92/2022+
Guide Hachette 2013
40000 vins ont été dégustés à l'aveugle par des jurys d'experts , 10000 vins ont été retenus
Mazis chambertin grand cru 2010 * ( Vin très réussi)
Ce grand cru régulièrement sélectionné dans le guide est le bijou du domaine, on se souvient notamment du coup de coeur décroché l'année dernière, pour le 2009, Chantal Tortochot, quatrième du nom sur l'exploitation familiale, possède 42 ares dans l'appellation, plantés de vigne de cinquante ans d'âge en bio (en attente de certification). Elle signe ici un vin profond, au nez frais et flatteur de petits fruits rouges, de vanille et d'épices. La bouche se montre ronde, charnue, consistante, élégante et fruitée, soulignée par d'élégants tanins en finale. Un vin au grain raffiné, armé pour la prochaine décennie, que l'on verrait bien en compagnie d'un canal au sang.
Guide Bettane et Desseauve 2013
Plus de 50000 vins dégustés, seuls 8600 vins ont été cités dans le guide.
Ces deux journalistes dégustateurs ont été consacrés internationnalement, ils travaillent depuis plus de vingt ans avec une équipe soudée de Huit experts.
Tous recrutés pour leur comptétence reconnue.
Michel Bettane fut longtemps professeur agrégé de lettres classiques, puis après avoir suivi les cours de dégustation de l'académie du vin à Paris en 1977 il y devient professeur et dès le début des années 1980, collaborateur principal de la revue des vins de france.
Journaliste de formation Thierry Desseauve a été rédacteur en chef puis directeur de la revue du vin de france de 1989 à 2005.
Vins notés de 16.5 à 18/20 vin de référence dans son appellation et son Millésime
Chambertin Grand cru 2010 : Maturité 2024 à 2034 - Prix TTC Public : 75 Euros - note :17/20
Beau nez complexe et minéral indiscutablement typé, bon élevage, un peu plus de risque dans le choix de la maturité du raisin et il égalera les meilleurs
Mazis Chambertin grand Cru 2010 : Maturité 2018 à 2030 - Prix TTC Public 65 Euros - note :16.5/20
Joli vin racé, tout en subtilité et classicisme d'extraction , pas aussi puissants que d'autres mais assez attachant.
Signe t'il la résurection de ce Domaine? Nous le souhaitons.
Jancis Robinson
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JANCIS ROBINSON
Jancis Mary Robinson (née dans le comté de Cumbria, le 22 avril 1950) est un écrivain et une journaliste Britannique spécialisée dans le vin.
Elle a un doctorat honorifique de l'Open University, et a fait une OBE en 2003, et a reçu beaucoup d'autres récompenses pour ses écrits. Actuellement, elle écrit une colonne hebdomadaire pour le Financial Times, et écrit pour son site http://www.jancisrobinson.com/. Jancis Robinson est mariée à l'écrivain Nick Lande ; Ils ont trois enfants, Julia, William et Rose . Publications |
Rather rhubarby and stewed fruit on the nose. Tart finish. The acidity predominates in this wine which seems less successful than the Champerrier
Burgundy Comes to San Francisco: Some Tasting Notes - 29/04/2012
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ALDER YARROW
Since January of 2004, Alder Yarrow has been publishing Vinography.com, where he writes daily about wines, the wine world, and good restaurants around the globe. San Francisco Magazine has called Alder "the wine world's brightest cyberstar," and Vinography is widely acknowledged to be the world's leading wine blog. The site, which Alder began as a way to collect his own personal notes about wine and food, has garnered praise from Food and Wine Magazine, Bon Appetit Magazine, The San Francisco Chronicle, The LA Times,The Washington Post, FastCompany, and 7x7 Design Magazine, among others.
In both his writing, as well as his selected postings of news and miscellany from the world of wine, Alder tries to create an alternative to the traditional sources and styles of wine journalism, partially by focusing on the stories, the people, and the passion behind wine from a decidedly down-to-earth perspective. Vinography was recently honored as the Best International Wine Blog in a global competition held in conjunction with the Salon de Vins de la Loire. Alder lives in San Francisco with his wife Ruth. |
It's been two years since I've been to Burgundy and I miss it terribly. And not just because I haven't had my fix of Delice de Pommard, the utterly addictive soft cow's milk cheese that is encrusted with whole mustard grains. Burgundy is magical, and so are its wines. There's nothing like winding your way through the back roads of the region to little towns like Pouilly-Fuisse (pictured at right), stopping to step down into ancient cellars and taste vibrant Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with people whose lives are suffused with wine and the soil in which it grows.
If you're like me, you don't get to drink as much Burgundy wine as you might like. Not for lack of desire, but mostly for lack of funds. While a humble Bourgogne Blanc or Bourgogne Rouge are relatively easy to afford, and not horribly difficult to find here in the U.S., provided you have access to a specialty wine retailer, cru-level wines are a different matter altogether. I'd drink a hell of a lot of Premier Cru Chassagne Montrachet if I could, but I'm not yet at the point in my life where my everyday drinking wines can cost me $80 a bottle. And forget ordering a nice bottle at most restaurants, unless it's a special occasion.
All of which is a way of saying that as someone interested in constantly educating my palate on the wines of the world, I always jump at the chance to taste more Burgundy, no matter what the circumstance.
That's why I played hookey from work for a couple of hours last Monday when the BIVB ( Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne, the main marketing association for Burgundy) rolled into town with fifty or sixty producers to show off the latest (2009 and 2010) vintages to members of the trade and media. One of the greatest perks of having been at this blogging thing for a while is getting the opportunity to have a press pass to great events such as this.
Held under the skylights of one of San Francisco City Hall's atriums, the tasting was very well put together, and surprisingly sparsely attended by the trade. The room was quite abustle at the hight of the tasting, but far less so than, say, the average ZAP Zinfandel or Rhone Rangers tasting. Hell, I've seen busier Riesling tastings.
Not that I'm complaining, mind you. Nor were the other folks who were there. I was perfectly happy to stroll my way around a beautiful space, sampling wines that ranged from very good to utterly fantastic.
While I consider myself a die hard fan of California wines and wine regions, I must admit that the average quality of these wines was definitely higher than I would find at a similarly sized California tasting. I'm proud to have catholic tastes when it comes to wine -- more so than many -- perhaps I do lean a little towards the Old World in my preferences. But perhaps, too, it was simply nice to taste a lot of Chardonnay that wasn't viscously ripe and treated with too much wood, and a lot of Pinot Noir with high levels of acidity.
In any case, it was a fantastic tasting, and not just because they were serving Delice de Pommard along with freshly sliced baguettes. A nice selection of producers, from larger negociants to tiny little domaines were there, and many were pouring some of their better wines.
I'm pressed for time this week and weekend, so I'm not writing up every wine I tasted. Here are some of the highlights
RED WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5
2010 Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin "Lavaux-St-Jacques" $59
2009 Domaine Tortochot Charmes-Chambertin $89
2009 Domaine Tortochot Mazis-Chambertin $99
RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9
2010 Domaine Tortochot Gevrey Chambertin "Les Corvées" $25
2010 Domaine Tortochot Gevrey Chambertin "Champerrieres" $29
2010 Domaine Tortochot Gevrey Chambertin "Champeaux" $59
Discovery in the Cote de Nuits by Robert Whitley on Creators.com - Grands jours de Bourgogne Mars 2012
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ROBERT WHITLEY
Robert Whitley writes a syndicated wine column for the Creators Syndicate and is Publisher of the online wine magazine, Wine Review Online. He has been a wine columnist for more than two decades, beginning with his original "On Wine" column in the San Diego Union-Tribune in 1991.
Robert also serves as Director of five major wine competitions in the United States, and has participated in numerous wine competition in the U.S. and abroad, including the Concours Mondial, the Chardonnay Challenge and the annual wine competition at Vinitaly.
Robert also has been a radio host and a reporter, columnist or editor at many top U.S. newspapers, including Newsday, the Washington Post and the San Diego Union.
He was the founding Director of the Monterey Wine Competition in 1994, and today oversees the San Diego International Wine Competition, the Critics Challenge, the Winemaker Challenge, the Sommelier Challenge and the inaugural Mainly Meritage International Wine Competition. |
BEAUNE, France — Once upon a time, a hefty selection of Burgundy was a staple of virtually every fine wine shop in America. Burgundy was the benchmark for any wine made from pinot noir or chardonnay, so much so that winemakers from the New World hardly ever missed an opportunity to characterize their style of chardonnay or pinot as "Burgundian."
Of course, few of them were, for Burgundy's aromas and flavors, the structure and textures of its wines, are driven as much by the unique soils and climate of the region as they are by the hand of the winemaker.
Red Burgundies are generally firmer when young and significantly more tannic than New World pinots, while white Burgundies tend to be less fleshy and exhibit less fruit and more minerality than the chardonnays of the New World.
At some point, perhaps a decade or two ago, the "Burgundian" style, or profile, became less attractive to wine consumers drawn to the ripe, fleshy, creamy pinots and chardonnays that came into fashion in California and Oregon in the 1990s.
As the pendulum swings back the other way and more and more enthusiasts seem to be searching for wines that exhibit structure, finesse and minerality, particularly pinots of that ilk, now seems like an appropriate time to take a peek at some of the producers in Burgundy who are making the wines that customers want, and at a very high level.
My observations are drawn from tastings last week during Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne, a week-long spin through the vineyards and cellars of Burgundy for members of the professional wine trade and wine media.
The Grands Jours is conducted every two years. The wines presented this year were primarily from the 2009 and 2010 vintages, both of which were very good, although very different. The growing season of 2009 was warmer and produced softer, rounder wines that will be ready to drink earlier. The 2010 vintage was cooler and produced more classically structured wines that will age beautifully.
In one of a random series of columns on Burgundy that I will offer over the next couple of months, today's Wine Talk focuses on the red wines of the Cote de Nuits. I have further sharpened the focus by concentrating on producers I either didn't know or hadn't tasted often, or in some time. My tastings in the Cote de Nuits were all about discovery.
Domaine Tortochot, Gevrey-Chambertin — The domain of Chantal and Michel Tortochot offers a house style that runs through all of the wines save the grand cru Mazis-Chambertin. The wines are feminine, delicate and sophisticated, the personification of Burgundian elegance. The standouts were the aforementioned 2010 Mazis-Chambertin (95 points), 2010 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (93) and 2010 Gerey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux
Grand Jours de Bourgogne 2012 – Tasting the Perfect 2010 Burgundy Vintage
Having now sampled roughly 300 examples from the 2010 vintage in Burgundy – most during my recent tour of the region to attend the Grand Jours de Bourgogne 2012 – it is unequivocally clear: 2010 is the greatest modern vintage for Burgundy I’ve personally encountered. In my first report on this vintage, I wrote:
"Having visited Burgundy more than two dozen times since first stepping foot in these respected vineyards in the 1980s, I have personally experienced many of this generation’s “greatest vintages ever produced” – first hand. Sampling literally thousands of the Cote D’Or’s singular examples, I have compiled volumes of notes spanning more than 25 years. During this span since the 1980s, I have tasted, written about and purchased no less than a half dozen vintages that could have been (and were) declared a perfect vintage (and for what it’s worth, I even worked the harvest for two of these stellar vintages, including 1990). Moreover, I’ve also experienced at least that many additional harvests where the vignerons and press were at odds with one another over declaring those vintage worthy of the “perfection” moniker. And then there comes a vintage such as 2010. Critics, wine-makers, consumers – it appears EVERYONE is beating a path to the nearest outlet for an opportunity to taste and order these wines. The wines of 2010 – and I’m primarily focusing on several of the reds in this report, yet the whites are equally superb – at this point in their evolution, outshine the 1985s, and 1989s. They outshine the 1990s, and 1993s, the 1995s, 1996s and 1999s. These 2010s outperform the 2002s, 2003s, the 2005s (yes, even the great 05s), as well as any vintage since those world-stopping efforts. In short, there simply isn’t a vintage in modern history that compares or competes with the 2010s."
And today, as I publish part I of this vintage round up, I stand by my initial summary. If you haven’t yet lined up your allocations – or if you don’t have a friend in the business – you might want to consider getting your tail off the sidelines!
Domaine Tortochot - 2010 Clos de Vougeot
Medium deep colors of pure red ruby, with a nice crystalline quality here. Farming purely according to agriculture biodynamic produces wines of classical aromatic profiles Chez Tortochot: the Clos Vougeot 2010 offers nuances of freshly turned earth, forest floor and menthol married to crushed and macerated blue pinot fruit. On the palate, there’s purity to the earthy, mineral infused quality of the wine that takes center stage to the fruit. This is a large scaled effort, yet the tannins are well integrated, suggesting patience will be well-rewarded.
93 points
Tasting at Domaine Tortochot - 9/04/2012
http://blog.tedwardwines.com
Last week, we published our first piece on the journey to Burgundy, beginning with our trip to Domaine Tortochot, and now it’s time to follow with some tasting notes. After walking through the 2011 vintage, sampling from the cellar barrels, we moved to the tasting room upstairs to taste from the bottles.
Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois” 2010
From the lieu-dit, “Les Jeunes Rois”, in the Commune Appellation of Gevrey-Chambertin, this is a vineyard with 30-year-old vines. The nose here is wild–wild horses, spiced forest undergrowth, twigs and bramble fruit; notes that deliver on the palate too. The fruit is light, and the acidity is distant star bright, with tannins that express a minerality that lingers.
Domaine Tortochot Gevery-Chambertin “Les Corvees” 2010
Another lieu-dit from the Commune Appellation of Gevery-Chambertin, the vines of “Les Corvees” are 50-years-old. Earthy with light wildflower notes, the fruit here offers acidity that positions the fruit’s freshness front and center and long on the palate.
Domaine Tortochot Gevery-Chambertin 1er Cru “Lavaux St Jacques” 2010
Located upslope from the village, as a parcel between two hills, “Lavaux St Jacques” totals 9.53ha. The microclimate here is slightly cooler than in the nearby Grand Cru vineyards; and the later maturation of the parcel yields wines with a fine, feminine style. At the time of tasting, Chantal’s 2010 was closed tight, like bud in early spring, rendering the red fruit a little tart with light tea tannins that were balanced by the wine’s floral delicacy and mineral undertones.
Domaine Tortochot Gevery-Chambertin 1er Cru “Les Champeaux” 2010
Residing north of “Lavaux St Jacques”, “Les Champeaux” totals 6.68ha of vines that grow on rocky, terraced soils. Producing more masculine wines than its nearby neighbor, the fruit in the glass here is certainly riper, though still wild, and rich, with fresh acidity and integrated tannins. Near the finish, there are spicy notes that linger alongside juicy fruit, long after the wine makes its exit.
Domaine Tortochot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2010
Chantal owns 0.57 of this Grand Cru vineyard, which totals 30.83ha when combined with its neighboring Mazoyeres-Chambertin. Gently sloped, the soil consists of somewhat decomposed limestone with gravel and stones. A beautiful nose, the 2010 shows purple flowers that sit close to the ground in a deeply wooded forest. In the mouth, there’s a perfect marriage of floral notes and fruit with soft tannins that sit upon a dark,rich soil; yet the finish is lady-like and chalky.
Domaine Tortochot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2009
The 2009 is rustic, when compared to the 2010. Floral with a silky viscosity, the wine shows an anise spice that precedes the wild fruit, which is bolder than the 2010. The finish here is kissed with spice and carried by the wine’s bright acidity.
Domaine Tortochot Chambertin Grand Cru 2010
Of the 12.9ha of this Grand Cru vineyard, which is divided into 55 separate parcels, Chantal owns 0.31ha. Sitting at an altitude of 275-300 meters, the site is gently sloped with limestone based soils. Incredibly feminine, this is a wine that’s age-worthy, but also suited for drinking young. Producing wines that are generally more feminine in style than others in Gevery-Chambertin (and in Chambertin Grand Cru, which generally yields more masculine wines), Chantal achieves this effect by punching down less and pumping over more, which is a much gentler process. Floral with a chalky minerality, the 2010 is quite elegant, with raspberry and cherry fruit, and lightly spiced tea-leaf tannins that turn chalky on the finish when accompanied by the wine’s lingering acidity.
Domaine Tortochot Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2010
Located in Vougeot, Clos de Vougeot, which is 50.59ha, totals more than 80% of the vineyards in the commune. Of this total, Chantal owns seven sweet rows, or 0.21ha, of the largest Grand Cru in Côte de Nuits. Producing wines that are known for their minerality, Clos de Vougeot has such a wide range of soil structures and drainage, with 100 different parcels that are owned by 80 proprietors, that notes of minerality might be one of the only unifying factors. Chantal’s Grand Cru shows beautiful stones on the nose and palate, with red fruit and anise, which Georgia described as red licorice. The minerality here is so omniscient that it dominates the fruit, which peaks mid-palate and is carried to the finish by chalky tannins. This is clearly a wine with great aging potential…
Bourgogne Wineblog par Patrcik Maclart - Novembre 2011
Dégustation Gevrey Chambertin 2010
L’ensemble des vins présents a été dégusté. Comme à mon habitude, j’ai dégusté d’abord le vin, puis j’ai regardé l’étiquette. Ma cotation part de « ** » (très moyen) à « ***** » (exceptionnel). Les vins sous la note de deux étoiles ne sont pas repris.
La dégustation avait lieu dans le cadre prestigieux de l’hôtel de la Poste à Beaune. Les conditions étaient parfaites, avec les vins à bonne température, et des verres (de qualité) et crachoirs à profusion. Bravo à l’organisation.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN « villages »
La sélection des villages a été impitoyable. C’est à ce niveau qu’on a senti le millésime délicat. Dans l’ensemble, c’est du haut niveau. Des vins concentrés, avec de beaux tanins (quand le vin est réussi, c’est la caractéristique du millésime), et une belle personnalité. Quelques bouteilles un peu déroutantes, mais bien des vins sont en fin d’élevage, et ne sont pas encore des plus souriants à la dégustation.
2010 s’exprime bien dans ses cuvées. De la concentration, des tanins bien présents et de bonne qualité, des acidités de bon niveau, mais parfois quelques vins à la chair manquante. Ce sera là je pense le défaut principal qu’on trouvera sur le millésime 2010. Il me semble de bonne garde, mais il faudra bien déguster pour bien acheter. Les vins étaient présentés par ordre alphabétique, c’est donc l’ordre de retranscription et de dégustation.
Un petit clin d’oeil : la présence d’un nombre important de cuvées « vieilles vignes ». Ou Gevrey manque de jeunes plantes, ou tout simplement le vigneron a voulu montrer (et démontrer) le meilleur de sa production en villages. Comme quoi la racine de la vigne n’est pas un simple conducteur de sève, c’est aussi un conducteur d’émotions
Gevrey « Champerrier – vieilles vignes » – Domaine TORTOCHOT
***(*) très beau nez fumé, marqué par l’élevage, terrien, beau ! La bouche est plus fluide que je ne le supposais, et c’est un peu décevant. La finale est soyeuse, peut-être un peu trop. C’est consensuel, et ça justifie une note un tantinet sévère.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN « PREMIERS CRUS »
Le niveau était élevé. Comme pour les village ou les Grands Crus, 2010 est une année de vigneron complet. Bon à la vigne, bon au chai, l’expérience, l’instinct, l’intelligence… Toutes ces choses ont dû être seconde nature pour compenser justement les carences de la première. Du haut niveau quand c’est bon.
2010 donne des premiers crus bien lisibles, conformes à leur terroir. Pas si simple que ça de déguster ces vins, car comparer un « Champeaux » d’un « Lavaux Saint-Jacques« , c’est comme comparer le Titien à Rembrandt, rien à voir. Ici encore, de la concentration, des tanins bien présents et de bonne qualité, des acidités de bon niveau.
Les vins étaient présentés par ordre alphabétique, c’est donc l’ordre de retranscription et de dégustation
1er Cru « Lavaux Saint-Jacques » – Domaine TORTOCHOT
****(*) beau nez vibrant, spectaculaire de pinot, fumée, tellurique, bien ressemblant à son cru, caillouteux. Très belle attaque vive, trame acide impeccable, très belle concentration. Du vin en milieu de bouche, finale tonique. Très belle bouteille.
GRANDS CRUS DE GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN
Contrairement aux village et premiers crus, les Grands Crus ont certes été dégustés par ordre alphabétique, mais aussi par ordre d’intensité de crus, à savoir les Charmes et Mazoyères pour commencer, en suivant jusqu’aux bourgeois clos de Bèze et majestueux Chambertin. Toutefois, vu la trituration de certains qui se sont jetés sur les grandes bouteilles comme la famine sur la Somalie, il y a pu y avoir un peu de désordre dans l’ordre. Ci-dessous, c’est l’ordre de dégustation qui sera donc respecté.
Le millésime 2010 sied bien aux grands crus. Telluriques, tanniques et concentrés, ils donneront à mon avis des vins de bonne garde, de bonne tenue.
Cette dégustation a été pour moi un peu plus difficile que les autres, car j’ai trouvé des boisés parfois trop intenses, mais il est vrai que l’élevage sera un tantinet plus long que les premiers crus ou les village. Certains ont hélas cru bon de justifier le prix de leurs rares bouteilles par du bois. C’est vraiment billon (ça veut dire « sot » en beaunois…)
La totalité des vins a bien sûr été dégustée, chaque cru a été apprécié selon ses caractéristiques. Je me suis parfois abstenu lorsqu’un vigneron en présentait plus d’un, afin de préserver mon palais.
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru – Domaine TORTOCHOT
**** nez réservé, tellurique, fruits noirs, conforme à son cru. C’est intense et profond. Bonne bouche, belle vinosité (grande qualité de ce vin), du caractère mais malgré tout de la finesse (encore un Mazis). Long, puissant et intense en finale et rétro.